IRELAND
July, 2004
Continued

 



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July 3, 2004 continued.
    
We arrived in Connemara in the afternoon.  We stopped at a little store in the town of Oughterard and bought supplies, and then we drove up over the mountain pass.  The road we took was a very narrow lane that hardly anyone used; it wound up into the mountains, and eventually down the other side to the sea.  Chris Ryan had told Jineen and me about this road several years ago, and we had driven it in the wintertime.  We had loved it then, but now in the summer, it was even more spectacular.  You left civilization behind when you turned off of the main road onto this small track, and as you ascended the mountainside, it was magical.  There was incredible scenery, with the mountain slopes covered with a maze of rocks among the peat bogs, and streams tumbling down the hillsides into silver lakes.  Nobody lived up there but the sheep, and the sense of peace and serenity was awesome.  The Road less Traveled! 
 
    
We stopped by a waterfall near the top, where you could see forever.  You could look back from where we had come and see the waters of Lough Corrib; and looking forward, you saw hills and mountains, green in the summer sunshine, with the silver cascades of falling streams contrasting with the dark evergreen forests ahead.  Here we had our picnic: fresh bread and good Irish cheese, fruit, and chocolate cookies for dessert.  Mom climbed down on the rocks by the waterfall, and Melissa hiked up to the top of a large nearby hill.  


Mom at the Connemara Pass Picnic Spot

     We carried on through this enchanted landscape.  Rocks, rocks, peat bogs, and more rocks.  Swiftly falling creeks and sudden lakes, then on to dark forests, more lakes, more peat bogs, and more rocks.  It was remote, desolate, spectacular.  After a while we started to see the remains of old stone shepherd’s cottages, their roofless shells reminders of times gone past.  Sheep grazed along the side of the road, and sometimes lay dozing in the road itself.  When we approached the other side of the mountains, we could look down on Galway Bay.  As we approached the coastline, we wouldn’t have thought it possible, but the land became even more rocky.

     We continued down to the sea, and turned right along the coast, heading for the town of Screeb where our lodging for the night was.  Unfortunately, we missed the turnoff twice, following erroneous roads along several peninsula shorelines before we finally found the way to Screeb.  It would have been easy to miss; the town, as far as we could determine, consisted of one tiny store.  But eventually we located our B&B, called Dun Manus; it was a lovely house with a view of Kilkieran Bay, an inlet from the Atlantic. We sat on the front deck and had tea. 
    
We went to dinner at the Peacock Hotel, which was about twenty minutes away.  It was a glorious drive through spectacular countryside, with the slow sunset casting a golden glow on the many lakes and inlets.  Shafts of sunlight coming down through the clouds made for mystical lighting; and our mood was peaceful as we enjoyed the gradual nightfall, listening to the ‘Song for Ireland’ on the CD player.  After dinner and a drink in the pub, we enjoyed the scenic drive back, now in the dusk. 

     Returning to the B&B, Melissa and I went for a walk.  It was about 11:00 pm by this time, but it was not fully dark, there was still a bit of light in the western sky.  We followed a small lane up the hill behind the house, where we saw a little stone building, one of the old shepherd’s cottages, long abandoned, with vines and ivy serving as a roof.  Using the torch, we climbed over the gate and investigated.  As we explored around the back we found an old corner of stone walls; the ruins of an even more ancient building, with trees growing dense over top of it, forming a sort of cave.  We were pretty sure that Leprechauns must live there!  We went around behind it and struck a tiny trail that wound into the underbrush.  We sort of crashed through the undergrowth, following a path clearly meant for smaller feet, and found ourselves in a fairy-like hollow between the rocks and under the holly trees.  It was a hidden secret place, and it felt very mystical.  But when we went to leave, we found that the leprechauns, clearly annoyed with our trespass, had hidden the pathway that led out, in an effort to confuse and trap us.  Every path we tried to use to leave the hollow was a false trail or dead end!  After several aborted attempts and aimless wanderings, we finally managed to find a way out, and escaped their clutches. 
    
Continuing on up the road, we saw a number of enchanting hollows among the rocks and banks and heather that surely must have been, at the very least, meeting places for leprechauns and fairies, if not their actual dwellings.  Twice I caught a quick glimpse of movement out of the corner of my eye as some fey creature darted into the underbrush under the pale starlight, but these folk are very elusive, and difficult to actually get a clear view of.  We felt that it was very likely that they had buried a pot of gold from a rainbow’s end nearby, but alas, there was no possible way to locate it. 
    
Then we went back down the hill and to the water’s edge; we lay on the rocks by the bay and watched the sky.  Fluffy, puffy clouds lined the horizon, dark eerie shapes in the glow of the last lingering rays of the sunset; we watched them change shape, picking out a hippo, a whale, a crab, and Siamese gorillas.  Melissa saw a shooting star.  It was well after midnight before we went inside and to bed.

July 4, 2004
     Independence Day! 
     This was actually somewhat ironic, as George Bush’s recent visit to Ireland had triggered a renewed wave of resentment towards him among the Irish people, and we found ourselves in the somewhat unfamiliar and quite uncomfortable position of feeling like we should apologize for being American!  Not that the Irish people turned their antagonism towards us; they were as unfailingly friendly and gracious as always, but on numerous occasions I felt like I should hold up a sign that said, “Don’t blame us, we can’t stand him either!” 
    
But aside from all of that, I had the best Fourth of July I can ever remember.  It was a magical day from start to finish.

     Melissa and I got up early and left the house at 6:00 a.m. to go hiking.  We paused on the deck of the house to look at the water.  The surface was as still and smooth as glass; not a breeze stirred at this early hour, and the hills beyond were mirrored in the water.  It was a scene of incredible tranquility and beauty, and the absolute stillness and quiet was broken only by the honking of a pair of snow-white swans as they flew across the inlet just above the surface of the water, before gliding in for a graceful splash landing.

      We drove towards the mountains, and following the directions of our B&B lady we found a little lane that led us up a hillside to join the hiking trail.  We parked the car, and took a path that headed straight up the mountainside.  Soon we came to a fence on the steep slope, with a metal gate in which the word “Mamean” was wrought, and it was topped with a cross.  As we stood below the gate, the ground sloped up sharply to it and then dropped away on the other side; as we gazed up at the gate, we could see nothing but sky beyond it.  It truly looked like the Gateway to Heaven!  We opened the gate and entered.


Gateway to Heaven

     We walked up the side of the mountain on a small stony path marked for hikers, which wound among the rocks and boulders, climbing upwards toward the summit.  It is actually an ancient pilgrim's trail.  In the clear morning light, the views were breathtaking.  The land was much wetter than it looked from a distance, with streams, cascades and pools everywhere.  We didn’t see a soul, except for the occasional sheep.  It was incredibly peaceful.

     When we reached the top, we came upon a small church; this was the ‘Mamean’ that the gate below had signified.  It was sitting at the top of the slope, a monument for loved ones and a place of worship, apparently put there for hikers and travelers.  There was a holy well and a small stone shrine, with a statue of St. Patrick standing in front.  Twelve Celtic crosses surrounded it, representing the Twelve Stations of the Cross.  The scenery from this spot was phenomenal; you did feel like you were looking down from heaven.  I am not a particularly religious person, but this place held a kind of magic, and I felt that one could find God here.


Mamean Church

     Inside the little building, people had left offerings on an altar; remembrances for those loved ones they had lost.  Some of the most touching mementos were for firefighters that had died in New York City during September 11th.  There was another shrine outside, where people had left small objects of respect for this place of worship, often something they had carried with them up the mountain.  There were coins, photos, keys, hairclips, small toys and figurines, pieces of jewelry.  I wanted to leave something there myself; I searched through my pockets for a suitable offering.  The only thing I had in my pockets were the car key; feeling that this would be an unwise sacrifice, I pulled a button off my shirt to leave as my contribution.

     We hiked on, following the path around to the other side of the slope; from there we could look down across a huge valley, with the peaks of the Twelve Bens mountain range rising beyond.  We sat on the rocks and watched the view; it was different every few minutes, with the moving clouds and changing light.  Higher peaks towered above us on both sides, and before us the vale glistened, as the morning sun reflected on streams like silver ribbons, and on the hundreds of small bright pools set within the peat bogs.  We saw our path winding away into the distance far below us; I wanted nothing more than to just keep going indefinitely, to follow the trail to see where it went and what treasures it held.

Still round the corner there may wait
A new road or a secret gate . . .

     We sat on the rocks for a time and just listened.  We could hear the breeze around us and the wind on the mountaintop above.  We heard the sounds of birds, of sheep, of trickling brooks, and the louder tumbling of a small waterfall not far away.  And other than that, just quiet.   We sat there for a long while. Don’t think, just be. 

     Eventually, it was time to return to reality.  But next time I visit Ireland, I am going to try to put time aside for some longer hikes, to follow some of those pathways and see where they go!  We made it back to the B&B in time for a late breakfast, collected Mom, and set out for Clifden. 
     
We followed the coast road; it was very scenic, and very rocky!  It is hard to describe the fields and hills in this area; they are just about solid with stones and huge boulders. Few trees grow there, between the rocks and the peat bogs.  It is very different from the rest of Ireland, with a unique and bleak beauty all its own; but it would be a very hard place to live and scratch out an existence, especially in farming!

     We saw many of the famous Connemara ponies.  You would often see one or two mares with their foals, in the back yard of small cottages, or sometimes in a field that went right down to the water’s edge.  We learned that there is quite a lot of demand worldwide for these ponies, and they often sell for up to eight or ten thousand euros, even as yearlings! 

     There are many different types of scenery in Connemara, and it can change quickly from one area to another.  We took a detour up between the arms of the mountains, where the land was less rocky, with large trees overlooking a fast-flowing river where the locals fish for salmon.  Here the Ballynahinch Castle sits in awesome splendor by a large lake; it has been turned into a very exclusive hotel and resort.


Ballynahinch Castle

     Back to the coast, we stopped at a lovely sandy beach on Gorteen Bay.  Melissa and I took off our shoes and socks, rolled up our pants, and went running along the beach, splashing in the small waves that came to shore.  It was brilliant, but the water was certainly cold enough to discourage any thoughts of actually swimming!  We walked along the beach, collected some seashells, and then went on our way again.
    We followed the shoreline around through the beautiful fishing village of Roundstone, and then we proceeded on to the town of Clifden, arriving in the early afternoon.  We checked into our B&B, the Faul House, and found to our delight that they raised Connemara ponies there; so we got some good up close and personal time with those darling pony foals!  We stopped in town at the bakery for some picnic supplies, and then set off for Clifden Castle.

     The Clifden Castle is very special to me.  When I visited Connemara the first time, with Jineen, we found it quite by accident; and it has always ranked as one of my favorite-ever castle experiences in Ireland.  On that occasion, we were driving the Sky Road.  I just love that name, the Sky Road, and it is very appropriate.  The drive is incredibly lovely, winding along the cliff edge with the water below and nothing but the sky beside you; and at times when the road slopes sharply upwards, it seems there is nothing but sky in front of you as well, and you might just drive up into it.  It was nearing sunset, and the sky was filled with pastel colors.  We happened to look back behind us, and from that angle, we saw it!  There were green fields sloping down to the bay, with the hills rising behind, and this incredible castle sitting there, majestically overlooking the water.   
    
Of course, we turned back and found a way in, following a small and very rough little boreen (lane) from the road down to the castle; only to find that getting out again turned into more of an adventure than we had anticipated.  There proved to be no place to turn around because of flooding at the bottom of the road, and we ended up having to back our rental car up that narrow lane for about three quarters of a mile, burning out the clutch in the process.  (For that story, see Ireland, December 2001.)


Clifden Castle - view from Sky Road

     Because our finding of the Clifden Castle had been so unexpected and so delightful, it has had a very special meaning to me; and I have been very eager to return to it ever since.  And of course Mom and Melissa had not seen it, so it was with great anticipation that we headed down the Sky Road this time.  We had no trouble finding the entrance to the little lane. 
    
Now common sense dictated that Melissa and I should hike down the lane first, and make sure that the way was passable and the turn-around possible, before taking the car and Mom down the little boreen.  I was not keen to back out again, as our rental car this time was significantly larger than before, and I wasn’t at all sure it would even be safe to drive down.  The entrance to the little roadway looked even rougher, narrower and more eroded out than I had remembered it.   
    
Needless to say, common sense did not prevail.  Mom made some crack about how she couldn’t believe I would let a little rough road stop me, and so of course taking up the challenge, down the lane we went.  With the briars, barbed wire and stonewalls literally scraping both sides of our rental car with noises like fingers on a blackboard, we bumped and scraped our way down to the castle.  It was with much relief that I saw that there was indeed a dry place to turn around this time!


Clifden Castle

     The castle was as lovely as I remembered it.  It sits in a green pasture, with sheep and cows around it, overlooking a bay off of the Atlantic.  This particular peninsula of land is lush and green, and the setting is exceptionally peaceful and beautiful.  We sat by the castle and had our picnic, again with fresh bread and local cheese, and some excellent pastries from the bakery. 
    
A man and woman came along before long, and they turned out to be one-eighth owners of the castle.  We shared our pastries with them while they told us some of the history of the place.  It is a relatively new castle, built in the late 1700s by John Darcy, who was High Sheriff of West Galway.  He left it to his sons, but they lived elsewhere and had little interest, and it was eventually taken over by the state.  In more recent times, the eight families who were tenants on the estate were allowed to purchase it and divide the land up between them, with shared ownership of the castle.  After lunch, we explored the remains of the old stableyard below the castle.  The ivy covering the walls was in many places so old and strong that it had grown into small trees, with the tough winding trunks clinging to the stones. 


Clifden Castle

     As we headed back up the lane on our way out, we stopped to look at the ancient Standing Stones that stood by the roadway near the entrance.  These monoliths towered above our heads; lonely sentinels that had stood there silently for time out of mind.  There are many such monuments in western Ireland, set there in primeval times; nobody really knows who put them there or what there purpose was, as they predate the known history of the area. 
    
Touching the stone, I almost felt that the rock beneath my hand was alive.  It was filled with a sense of agelessness and mystery.  There was a large crack in one side of the stone; you could almost, but not quite, reach your hand inside.  When peering in with the torch, we could see the faint glow of some ring-shaped object deep inside the fissure; we couldn’t make out what it was for sure, but it intrigued us.  Wanting to leave something of our own, Melissa and I dropped several coins down into the crack.  You could see them faintly if you looked inside, but you couldn’t reach them again.  We wondered if, years and years hence, some other future travelers would stand in this spot and look inside the hidden place in this Standing Stone, and wonder about those coins, and about those who put them there.

       We continued on, and enjoyed a lovely view of the Clifden Castle from further along Sky Road, probably the same spot from which I discovered it the first time.  Then bidding it goodbye, we headed back to the B&B where we dropped Mom off for a rest; and Melissa and I went looking for a beach. 
    
The map showed a road out to Omey Island, and a sandy beach there.  We followed some very small and obscure roads, searching unsuccessfully for the bridge. Being somewhat lost by this time, we stopped and asked a man standing in front of his house where the road to the island was.  He laughed, and told us that we would need a boat!  There is no bridge, the road goes right across the sand for about a half a mile to the island; but you can only drive it at low tide!  Now the tide was high, and the road was covered by about twelve feet of water.  When you looked out at the island, you would never imagine that it was possible to drive to it; the ocean was between it and us! 
    
Giving up on reaching the island, we went out to the point at the very end of the peninsula, and climbed down on the rocks, watching as the tide came the rest of the way in.  We saw the waves crashing on the rocks just below us, and seagulls soaring high then diving for fish below the surface of the water.    
    
Picking up Mom, we went into the town of Clifden and had dinner at Mitchell’s, a very nice seafood restaurant.  We then drove back down the Sky Road one more time, to a lookout point at the end of the peninsula, to see the sunset over the ocean.  Incredible!


Sky Road Sunset

     We were tired after a long full satisfying day.  When I sat down that night to write up a few notes for this report, it seemed like our early morning hike had been days ago, rather than only that morning!

July 5, 2004
     Melissa and I got up early again, and went to ride Connemara ponies on the beach!  Riding on a beach is something I had never done before, and had always wanted to, so this seemed the perfect chance.  We had stopped by the pony trekking place the day before and talked to the owner, a rather gruff Irishman who had somewhat grudgingly agreed to take us out for a ride in the morning, early, before he was open for his usual tourist customers. 
    
He was feeding the ponies and tacking them up when we arrived; and he informed us that these were the ‘lively ponies.’  We had told him that we were expert riders, but he gave us a rather dubious look that indicated he had probably been told that often and erroneously, and that he would reserve judgment.  Then he set out to test us a bit!   
    
When we hit the first stretch of beach our guide with very little warning took off at a flat out gallop.  What a blast!  In front of me, Melissa’s pony’s hooves were throwing wet sand all over me and my mount; but we paid them back later, when my pony got in front he threw an entire fresh cow patty on Melissa!  Serves her right, for getting the faster pony!  After a couple of gallops our guide, now convinced that we really could ride, loosened up and became much more friendly; soon we were chatting away and he was telling us all about pony trekking.   
    
We galloped over the fields as well as the beaches.  Often the footing was inconsistent and the ground had many dips and humps, but the ponies were surefooted and never once stumbled or faltered.  We came to a small informal racetrack where a race meet had been held the day before, and had a nice run around the course.  It was marked off with ropes and tapes, and had very tight turns; but the ponies were handy and flew around it with ease!   
    
When we finished the ride, our guide, like any good Irishman, tried to sell me a pony.  While we were untacking, to my embarrassment, my pony slipped out of his stall and took off!  We chased him down behind a neighboring house, and returned him to his stable to finish his breakfast, and then went back to our lodging to have our own.

     We set out through the area known as the Twelve Bens, or sometimes, the Twelve Pins.  This is a rugged range of mountains made up of twelve distinct peaks, a very beautiful area with many lakes, or loughs, among the majestic mountains.  We stopped by the Kylemore Abbey, a beautiful abbey sitting on the shore of Lough Pollacappul, at the base of Duchruach Mountain.  It was built in the 1860s, and is the home of the Benedictine Nuns, and a renowned international girl’s boarding school.


Kylemore Abbey

     We stopped in the town of Leenaun for provisions, and then searching for a suitable picnic spot, we looked for the smallest road on the map that we could find.  The roads in Ireland are often quite small and winding anyway, so it tends to take quite a while to get from place to place.  Finding your way across the countryside is very different from here in America, because they rarely use route numbers or road names on the smaller roadways, instead using a signpost system, with signposts pointing to the town you want to head towards.  When we are not in a hurry, we like to look on the map and find the smallest back roads we can to get where we are going, rather than taking the most obvious routes.  Often these little byways become just a one-lane track with grass growing in the middle, and can be very remote and deserted.  This is often where you find some of the most pristine and beautiful scenery, and some of the best adventures.  The road less traveled! 
    
We turned down a small road outside of Maum, and followed it for miles as it wound through the mountains and alongside a stream.  We saw nobody except sheep and cattle.  We parked the car by a little bridge and had a picnic by the stream. 
    
Proceeding after lunch we came across a farmer moving a flock of sheep.  He had three sheep dogs that were doing the herding duties.  We stopped and watched as he moved them through several fields and across the road to a new pasture.  The dogs were very clever, and incredibly responsive to the subtlest commands from the farmer.  He would point, and they would enthusiastically dart in and move the sheep in the direction he indicated.  They knew exactly how to keep the sheep bunched together, and how to direct them across the road.  At one point the farmer, wanting to go ahead of the sheep and open the gate, tapped his staff on the roadway, and instantly all three dogs froze as still as statues.  They held the sheep motionless as well, and when the farmer gave them another signal the dogs then sent the sheep through the gate.  It was quite an impressive performance, a real pleasure to watch!

     In the afternoon, sadly, we left Connemara, as this was the last day before our flight and we needed to head closer to the airport.  But as we weren’t leaving until the following afternoon, we had arranged to visit an area known as ‘The Burren,’ which was south of Galway, in County Clare.  We followed a road along the coastline, and we saw yet again another type of scenery: hills that consisted of solid rock!  From a distance they had a gray color with a slightly purplish cast, and we thought the hills were covered with heather.  When we got close we realized that they were completely covered with stones.  We had thought it couldn’t get any rocker than Connemara, but we were wrong!


Rocks of the Burren 

     We checked into our B&B, which was aptly named Rocky View.  It was a nice house with a lovely sunroom featuring large glass picture windows, with a beautiful flower garden outside, and beyond that an incredible view of . . . the rocks!  We had a cup of tea and enjoyed the view, and watched as an older man in dirty coveralls worked in the back yard.  Mom stayed to examine the flower garden, and Melissa and I went exploring. 
    
We parked the car by the road and took a short hike down to the Gleninagh Castle, a lovely little fortress right on the Galway Bay.  It was another locked castle, mores the pity, but there was a beautiful little shrine and holy well beside it.  Two older Irish gentlemen came along; they were very funny and entertaining.  They discussed Irish history and American politics.  They told us how when Oliver Cromwell came over from England in 1649, commanding an army sent to crush Ireland, he had set off gunpowder charges under the southwest corners of many of the castles to cause them to crumble and collapse.  Needless to say, the Irish aren’t too fond of Cromwell. 


Gleninagh Castle

     Leaving Gleninagh Castle, we moved up the shoreline and sat on some high cliffs above the bay.  You could see the Aran Islands and the Atlantic beyond.  There were a number of large seabirds precariously nesting on the face of the cliff, looking as if they might tumble off into the sea at any moment.  Gulls were sailing in the wind, occasionally dipping down to the water’s surface to fish.  We watched as distant storm clouds gathered, and we enjoyed the stiff breeze on our faces.

     We then went further up the shoreline; the cliffs disappeared, but there was a huge expanse of bare rock from the road down to the shore.  From a distance it looked like smooth solid stone, but up close we found that the seas and the ages have carved it into an intricate labyrinth of convoluted shapes, with splits, crevices, and unexpected cliffs appearing in the cracked and eroded rock underfoot.  As we traversed through this treacherous maze, we were surprised to see cowpatties on top of some of the biggest outcroppings of stone.  Obviously the cows are able to negotiate this landscape as well; we couldn’t figure out why they didn’t break their legs!  Fortunately, Melissa was able to avoid the cowpatties this time.


Melissa watching the Burren sunset

     Sitting on the rocks by the water, we watched the slow sunset, with dramatic rays of light breaking through the ever-changing clouds.  We watched storms over the Aran Islands; black clouds hovering on the horizon with shafts of silver rain slanting down, accompanied by the rumble of distant thunder. 


Storms over the Aran Islands

      Picking up Mom at the Rocky View, we went a bit further along the coast to a nice restaurant overlooking the water.  There we had a table by the window and continued to watch the sunset; it lasts for hours as the sun goes diagonally across the sky instead of down during the summer.  Two cows watched placidly while their calves frolicked on the rocks by an old ruin on the rocky shore in the slowly fading light.   
 
   The Irish people tend to be very friendly, and one dapper older gentleman in particular waved to us as we arrived at the restaurant, and again later when he left.  We thought he was exceptionally sociable, and we were surprised when we arrived back at the B&B to find him there.  Then we realized he was the same man we had seen working in the garden earlier, but he looked so different clean and dressed up, we hadn’t recognized him!

July 6, 2004
    
After breakfast, we set out again; but we didn’t get far before encountering an obstacle.  There were two large tour buses, going in opposite directions on the small winding coast road, and they were stuck!  As they tried to pass, the bus heading towards us sort of tipped a little and leaned into the other one, and became firmly wedged between the other bus and the stonewall beside the road.  We sat there for quite a while as they tried to extricate it; finally, with much scraping of metal against metal, and against stone, they pried the buses apart.  As the tour bus passed us the driver gave us a friendly wave; and we were astonished to find that the driver was the same dapper gentleman from the garden and the restaurant and the B&B the night before!  He’s everywhere!  

    
We checked out a couple of castles along the way, but found none that we could enter.  Soon we arrived at the Cliffs of Moher!  This is an absolutely stunning spot.  The bad thing about it is that it is quite a tourist attraction, which is something we generally try to avoid, so there were a lot of people there.  But nonetheless, the cliffs themselves are so beautiful that it is worth putting up with the busy atmosphere to have a glimpse of them.  They stand about two hundred meters above the Atlantic; an old watchtower stands at the highest point.  Several varieties of sea birds nest along the cliffs, and you can watch the waves come crashing in on the rocks below.  I leaned out over the edge of the cliff on my stomach so I could look straight down; and I became convinced the rock I was lying on was about to break off and crash down into the sea below!


The Cliffs of Moher

     It was time to head for Shannon Airport for our flight.  I was both glad and sad to be heading home; I would love to have stayed for another week, but at the same time I was getting eager to get home and ride my horses.  All in all, it was a great trip; and as always, I look forward to the next one!

 

Song for Ireland:

Walking all the day
With tall towers where falcons build their nests
Silver wings they fly
They know the call for freedom in their breasts
Saw Black Head against the sky
With twisted rocks that run down to the sea

Living on your western shore
Saw summer sunsets, I asked for more
I stood by your Atlantic Sea
And sang a song for Ireland

Talking all the day
With true friends who try to make you stay
Telling jokes and news
Singing songs to pass the night away
Watched the Galway salmon run
Like silver dancing, darting in the sun

Living on your western shore
Saw summer sunsets, I asked for more
I stood by your Atlantic Sea
And sang a song for Ireland

Drinking all the day
In old pubs where fiddlers love to play
Someone touched the bow
He played a reel that seems so grand and gay
I stood on Dingle beach and cast
In wild foam we found Atlantic bass

Living on your western shore
Saw summer sunsets, I asked for more
I stood by your Atlantic Sea
And sang a song for Ireland

Dreaming in the night
I saw a land where no man had to fight
Waking in your dawn
I saw you crying in the morning light
Lying where the falcons fly
They twist and turn all in your air-blue sky

Living on your western shore
Saw summer sunsets, I asked for more
I stood by your Atlantic Sea
And I sang a song for Ireland




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Phyllis Dawson
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